Climbing
Cotopaxi
5897m 19,341 ft. -2 days
Rising majestically from the eastern cordillera of the Andes, Cotopaxi
is Ecuador's most famous volcano. Edward Whymper, the first to ascend
Cotopaxi, claimed it's 19,342 ft symmetrical cone made it the most perfectly
shaped mountain in the world. Climbing it has now become a prerequisite
for any mountaineer aspiring to higher peaks. Technically it is not a
difficult mountain but, due to its cloud-piercing height, it is essential
that climbers are well acclimatised, as well as physically and mentally
prepared. Ice- climbing gear is. also required. From its summit Cotopaxi
offers a spectacular panorama; on a clear Day all of Ecuador's other snow-capped
peaks can be seen, as well the Amazon basin. The gas-emitting crater,
almost 800m in diameter, will certainly remind climbers that they are
standing on an active volcano -one that is long overdue to erupt!
Day 01: At 09:00 we depart from Quito through the Panamerican
Highway to the South. After 3 hours drive we reach the Parking lot at
4.600m, from here we hike to the refuge of Cotopaxi (4800 in.) in more
or less 1 hour. After pic-nic-lunch we walk toward the glacier. In the
afternoon the Refuge for dinner and accommodation.
Day 02: We start climbing at midnight. After a little
Breakfast we ascent to the top (5897 m) and return to hut. In the afternoon
drive back to Quito.
Best weather December and January but good July to September and fine
through the whole year.
Chimborazo
6310m, 20,696 ft.- 2days
Chimborazo is the highest mountain in the Ecuadorian Andes and due to
its close proximity to the equator, it is also the furthest point from
the centre of the Earth. Climbing Chimborazo will present a challenge
to even the most experienced mountaineer; it is a technically easy to
moderate Climb, but the long approach to reach the peak will certainly
push your physical limits. In addition to proper acclimatisation, excellent
physical condition is required to cover the 1300 meter altitude difference
between the Whymper Refuge and the summit, a 9 to 12 hour Trek over never-ending
glaciers. Challenge yourself and be one of the few who have left their
footprints on the most distant point from the earth's molten centre. Break
the 20,000 ft. barrier and Stand on the furthest point from the centre
of the Earth. This is a physically challenging but non-technical Climb.
Day 1: We leave Quito in
the morning (9:00 o clock!) and pass Latacunga, Ambato on the way to the
Refuge (4 hours drive). Lunch on the Way, walk 30 mm. To the Whymper Refuge.
Dinner and accommodation.
Day 2. The Climb to the summit
is begun at 00:00 hours, and if the physical and technical conditions
are good, will take between 8-9 hours. Return to the Refuge 4-5 hours.
Travel by auto to Quito.
Altar
5319 m - 17446 ft
It doesn't matter from where you view, this ancient and probably extinct
volcano is the most impressive in the Ecuadorian Andes. Because it is
so infrequently visited it is ideal for scientific experiments of all
kinds. There are nine summits which form the highest points on the crater.
The normal routes are from the outside. Best weather is from December
to May but it is often rainy.
Antisana
5704 m - 18.869 ft
Due to it's position on the edge of the Andes above the Amazon basin this
rarely climbed peak offers a technical challenge and the need for good
route finding skills. Because of poor access just getting to the base
camp can be a challenge. Best weather around December and January.
Carihuairazo
5020 m - 16.465 ft
Known by the traditional indigenous communities living in the area as
the wife of Tungurahua, this is the volcano opposite on the Cordillera
Real. It is only a moderately difficult peak. althougi an interesting
climb and it is often noted to offer the best skiing in Ecuador. Best
weather June to January.
Cayambe
5790 m - 18.991 ft
The only place on the equator that has snow is on the southern flanks
of this extinct volcano. This peak was first climbed by the Wymper expedition
of 1880, and is still much less frequently climbed than any of the other
major peaks in the Ecuadorian Andes. The heavy crevassing and frequent
movements in the glacier make this climb a challenge. Best weather from
Dccember to May.
Iliniza
South 5263 m - 17.213 ft
A technical snow climb to challenge even the most experienced climber
with steep snow slopes and creasing and the reward at the summit is the
most spectacular view across the Avenue of the Volcanoes to Cotopaxi less
than 30 kilometers away. It was first climbed by Jean and Luis Carrol
in 1880. Best weather June to January.
Quilindana
4878 m - 15.996 ft
Almost exactly the same height as the highest point in Europe, this peak
is dwarfed by Cotopaxi, a few kilometers to the north. To reach and climb
this peak is a three day expedition but it can also be included as part
of an acclimatization hike around Cotopaxi. Best weather June to January.
Reventador
3485 m - 11.683 ft
In the Amazon basin the approach to this active volcano
is along jungle trails, often overgrown and always muddy, but the crater,
one of the world's largest makes the journey worthwhile. Best weather
from December to May but it's always rainy and muddy.
Sara
Urco 4676 m -
One of the two non-volcanic peaks in Ecuador located between the Andes
and Amazon. This mountain is climbed on average only once in every five
years and it's one of the most remote mountains of the country, its' only
guardians the condors that live there. Best weather from December to May.
The first ascent was by the Wymper expedition of 1880. Best weather December
to April.
Sangay
5230 m - 17,154 ft
One of the world's most active volcanoes with activity every 10 minutes
or so. To reach the volcano you first have to hike three days. The climbing
itself is fairly straight forward but because of the ever present threat
of eruption this is the most dangerous peak in Ecuador. Best weather December
to April.
Sumaco
3828 m - 12,240 ft
This is the ideal place to combine mountain and jungle. Remote and located
deep in the jungle, this mountain is one of the least climbed peaks in
Ecuador. It was first climbed by Jimenez de Ia Espada in 1865. Best weather
December to April, but always wet and muddy.
Tungurahua
5016 m - 16,475 ft
Above Baños in the Cordillera Real this volcano has the highest
height gain from 1800 meters in Bafios to 5016 meters on the summit and
the route passes through a wide range of different climatic zones. The
summit is snow capped and the crater is active. Best weather December
to May.
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